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Sean Siebern, the president and CEO of irrigation product manufacturer TSM, offers the following: • Use a tarp or something similar to place the dug-up grass, dirt and debris on, which keeps other areas from getting ruined and makes for easier cleanup. • To find the location of a leak, cap all the sprinklers in the zone, turn the zone on and look for puddling. • Add a nice sharp pocketknife to your toolkit to help open packages and clean up the edges of pipes after cutting them with a hacksaw.
Some of the recommendations from Tucor Inc., providers of irrigation control products, include: • Always use two-core, double jacketed, tin-coated copper wire with black and red conductors on the inside. • Never use a knife to strip insulation. • Even with a three-way splice, just twist two wires together at a time – after twisting the first two together into one, add the third and twist it on to it. • Use a lineman's pliers to twist the wires together, pulling away as you do. • Just use the wire nut to seal everything, not to twist the wires together. • Make sure the spliced wires with wire nut are pushed to the very bottom of the gel cap. • Never reuse gel caps.
For the first 1-2 years in the ground, containerized trees need to be watered more frequently, on the root ball and out to the tree's drip line. This is best accomplished by coiling 1/2'' line around the top of the root ball, in concentric circles, about 12" apart (farther apart on clay soils). As the tree matures, the emitter line can be moved away from the crown and extended to cover the growing root zone. Established trees are best irrigated with 1/2'' line as well; however it should start well away from the crown, and the irrigation durations should be longer but less frequently. DIG Corporation water matters™
Grants Awarded to School of Landscape Architecture and Planning
Francisco Uviña, University of New Mexico
Ash Nochian, Ph.D. Landscape Architect
Ashkan Nochian, Ph.D. Landscape Architecture
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