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The family of plants known as the grasses is enormous, comprising upwards of 7,500 species, but only a small number of these are suitable for what we refer to as turf. These are the species that tolerate intensive management and heavy use in places like lawns, parks, sports fields and golf courses.
Some basic information on how these turf plants grow is important background for any discussion on turf care. First, each turf species grows according to a predictable annual growth cycle. The species are divided into two general categories: cool season grasses and warm season grasses. The distinction between the two categories is based on physiological differences that have evolved through time in response to cool and warm climates.
The cool season grasses, such as Kentucky bluegrass, perennial ryegrass, creeping bentgrass and the fescues, are adapted to cool conditions, and, as a result, grow vigorously in the spring and fall, when conditions are optimum. The cool season grasses tend to suffer through the heat of mid-summer, however.
The warm season grasses, such as bermudagrass, zoysiagrass, centipedegrass and St. Augustine, are adapted to hot climates and grow most vigorously in the high temperatures of summer. The warm season grasses are most delicate in periods of cool weather in the late fall, winter and early spring.
What?EUR??,,????'???s important about the two categories is that the timing and intensity of all turf management practices should respect the condition of a species in a particular stage of its annual growth cycle. The effectiveness of any management practice - whether it’s mowing, fertilizing, aerification or watering - depends in large part on the condition of the grass plants. With that in mind, let?EUR??,,????'???s examine some ways to ensure you are properly mowing, as well as watering, the turf under your care?EUR??,,????'???
Mowing creates a dense and uniform turf. Grass plants contain all their buds or growing points in what?EUR??,,????'???s known as the crown. The crown of the plant is located at the soil line. Grass plants grow by pushing leaves up from growing points at their base. It’s this characteristic that allows turf plants to be cut frequently without harm. Mowing removes leaf tissue without damaging the growing points of the plant.
Cool season grasses have an upright growth habit. As a result, they perform best under lawn conditions at mowing heights between two and three inches. Creeping bentgrass is the exception because of its creeping or “stoloniferous” growth habit. Bentgrass can tolerate mowing heights well below one inch on golf course putting greens. The warm season grasses are predominantly creeping in growth habit, and prefer mowing heights under lawn conditions between one inch and two inches.
Mowing is a significant stress on individual grass plants. Mowing removes photosynthetic leaf tissue, which reduces the plant?EUR??,,????'???s ability to produce energy from sunlight. As a result, no more than one-third of a turf’s total height should be removed in a single mowing. Frequency of mowing should be based on growth rather than on the calendar. If the turf grows too much to obey the one-third rule, raise the mowing height, give the turf a chance to recover for a few days after mowing, then lower the height to the preferred setting and mow again.
Rooting depth is directly related to turf canopy height. In general, the longer the height of cut the deeper the root system. A deep root system is generally associated with a healthier, more stress-resistant turf. Therefore, mowing at the upper end of a species mowing range is generally preferred over the lower end.
Additional tips: Because the growing points of a grass plant are protected in the crown, scalping can permanently damage turf and should be avoided. Also, lawn weeds are generally more competitive when turf is cut short. Therefore, mowing at higher heights of cut can reduce the incidence of many weeds simply by shading them out.
Turf species with creeping growth habits (bentgrass and most of the warm season species) can develop what?EUR??,,????'???s known as “grain,” where the leaves and stems grow in one direction. Changing mowing patterns is one way to reduce grain. Cool season species with more upright growth habits are less likely to develop grain. Changing mowing patterns is less important, as a result. Alternating mowing directions or developing other creative mowing patterns can produce an attractive striping effect in turf, giving the homeowner or landscape contractor a chance to display some artistry in the same way that baseball fields or golf course fairways are striped!
Today’s advice (contrary to what was recommended in the past) is to leave clippings on the lawn. The old belief that clippings contribute to thatch is inaccurate. Clippings actually decompose quickly under normal conditions. Thatch is a spongy accumulation of roots and stems at the soil surface. Clippings returned to the turf do not contribute to thatch in a significant way. Leaving clippings on the lawn reduces environmental waste, saves the labor of collecting and composting them, and reduces the amount of fertilizer required, since the clippings return nutrients to the soil as they decompose. Research has estimated that 20 to 30 percent of the fertilizer applied to a lawn is removed and discarded if clippings are removed. That represents a significant savings.
Some of today’s new mowers include high-dispersion discharge chutes that spread clippings over a wider path, making bagging unnecessary. In addition, new recycling mowers make it even easier to leave clippings where they fall. They cut each grass blade several times, producing a finely chopped organic residue that is then forced back into the turf. When shopping for a mulching mower, make sure you are getting the real thing. Some manufacturers simply block off the clipping exit areas in the deck and call it a mulching machine.
True mulching mowers feature a closed deck design and other unique features, such as a special blade, front throw chamber and/or baffles on the underside of the deck.
There are situations when you should not leave clippings on the lawn. If you have been unable to mow for a long period or must mow in wet conditions, the long clippings are likely to form heavy, soggy clumps that cover the grass. In such cases, remove the clippings so they do not smother the grass plants beneath them.
The sharper a mower blade the better. As a general rule of thumb, resharpen a blade after no more than 10 hours of use by bringing it to a professional sharpening service or by sharpening it yourself. Mowing with a sharp blade is critical because it does the least amount of damage to the grass plant, and provides the best cut and the cleanest appearance. Mowing actually injures leaf tissue by creating open wounds. The cleaner the cut, the less the injury. Mowing with a dull blade shreds the end of leaves, causing significant browning from tip dieback, increased desiccation, and a heightened risk of disease.
Zero turning radius mowers are an excellent choice for mowing large areas. Professionals have found that zero turn mowers can cut mowing time in half because they are more efficient. The rear wheels operate independently, providing both the power and the steering. That means one wheel can rotate forward while the other rotates in reverse. This allows you to make any turn, from 0- to 360-degrees. That unlimited maneuverability means you can trim around a mailbox, cut close to flowerbeds, or reach to the edge of a lawn. There’s no need to make several passes around an obstacle. A zero turn mower also offers up-front visibility and plenty of legroom.
For areas where a zero turn mower won’t fit, 21” or mid-sized walk-behind machines work well. These machines are available with gear or hydrostatic drive systems. Hydrostatic drives - gearless systems that provide instant forward or reverse motion without shifting - are easier to use. They make turning corners, trimming around trees and backing up simple tasks.
Here’s a list of basic maintenance procedures (refer to your owner’s manual for more specific information on your model):
As a general rule, most lawns require about one inch of water per week from precipitation or irrigation. The best approach to watering is to irrigate deeply (the depth of the root system) and infrequently. Turf actually performs best when allowed to dry to the point of near wilt before rewatering. Frequent, shallow watering tends to keep the surface wet, which can cause several problems, including shallow rooting, low levels of oxygen in the root zone, higher levels of soil compaction, and increased risk of fungal disease. Deciding when to water is the key. Most lawns have indicator spots that tend to dry out first. When grass plants in these areas wilt, the turf turns a bluish-gray color and does not rebound quickly from footprints. When the indicator spots wilt, it’s time to irrigate.
Wetting the soil to the depth of rooting (eight to 12 inches) may require two or more irrigation cycles with a rest period of an hour or so in between. Soil can only absorb so much water in the top few inches before it begins to run off. At that point, it’s best to shut off the water and allow the soil to drain before repeating the cycle again.
The best time to water is early morning. Daytime watering often results in excessive water loss through evaporation. Evening or nighttime watering results in a longer period of leaf wetness, which increases the risk of fungal disease.
Francisco Uviña, University of New Mexico
Hardscape Oasis in Litchfield Park
Ash Nochian, Ph.D. Landscape Architect
November 12th, 2025
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