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In the last issue I discussed two of the three steps in water wise landscaping, namely preparation and installation after plant selection has been made. In this issue I will discuss the prime planting season, planting technique and maintenance.
All the basic planting instructions for general ornamental plants apply for desert native plants. The old rule of the planting hole “twice as wide and half again as deep” is just fine. One-third to one-half compost proportioned with the native backfill is a good practice. With most native plants it becomes a luxury rather than a necessity.
Where pre-plant fertilizers are specified, care should be taken to cut the rates in half. Native plants have the ability to find nutrients, even in very poor soils.
One technique, which is rarely employed today is that of timely planting after digging holes. It seems an insignificant detail, but the moisture present as capillary water in the soil is valuable. When the planting holes are exposed for long periods of dry weather, this moisture is lost. After planting and backfilling, it is difficult to establish that some degree of moisture in the soil is surrounding the rootball. A good practice is to install the plants the same day that the holes are dug unless the planting is interrupted by rainfall.
July 1 through July 31 is approaching the “unsafe” time period. Use extreme care. Irrigations during the establishment period should be timed for early morning or evening, preferably on cooler days. Try to choose species and varieties, such as desert or subtropical, that will tolerate, (some even prefer) warm season planting.
The long, hot dry days of August 1 through September 30 find a few varieties can be handled with some measure of success. Evaluate the site and the possibilities. Coastal or inland? Wouldn’t you rather take a vacation and let the native plant nurseryman sweat it out for a few more weeks? If the landscape job must be planted during this period, try to be creative with your techniques.
Water?EUR??,,????'??+During the early establishment period, it is important that the rootball does not dry out. This is not to say it must be kept soaking wet. After two months, be sure to water deeply. Many factors come into view to determine the need to irrigate. During the warm season, standing water around the collar of the plant can be devastating. If the weather is warm, irrigate early morning and try to keep the foliage dry. Deep, infrequent waterings are best, but much depends on the soil type and other environmental conditions.
For most plantings that are executed during the proper season, supplemental irrigations are usually needed on a weekly basis for the first two or three months, if it is planted in the fall.
Summer irrigations for established plantings are usually made on a monthly or once every three-week basis. It is best to irrigate during the cooler, overcast days in the summer months, whenever possible.
Mulching?EUR??,,????'??+This is perhaps the most important maintenance procedure in the native plant garden. Desert plants need deep moisture and cool roots. A generous portion of coarse, organic mulch retains moisture, eliminates weeds, cools approaching winter rains and spring growing season, to prepare for the dry summer to follow.
By planting during the proper season, we are able to coincide with the natural “clock” built into the plants, and they will respond to our (and their) satisfaction.
The highest success rate with natives can be achieved with fall installations, as the horticultural literature has stressed for many years. If a landscape project is ready for planting in August or September, it is advisable to delay only six or eight weeks. This is especially true at inland locations.
One of the safest planting schedules for native plant landscapes on the desert environment is as follows:
October 1 through October 15- oil preparation, amendment/pre-moistening. Assemble plant material. Finalize and test sprinkler systems.
October 15 through October 31?EUR??,,????'??+ Install container plants where irrigation is available. This is the earliest in the season, as it is preferable to wait for the last two weeks of November.
November 15 through November 30?EUR??,,????'??+ This is the optimum planting time in most cases. You can install container plants where no irrigation is available, as in revegetation projects. Planting should follow first appreciable rain of the seasons and should be timed (if possible) to immediately precede another good rain. Overseeding or application of hydroseed mixes. Rainfall should be sufficient to germinate and establish the seed crop.
December 1 through February 15?EUR??,,????'??+ Usually we encounter cold, wet weather. This is a very good time to handle the plants, but due to the cold weather, they may not start growing on top until later in the spring. The roots, however, are invading new soil and the plant is setting up for the rest of the year.
February 15 through March 30?EUR??,,????'??+ This is another time for planting, especially the fast growing hybrids and cultivers. Additional waterings may be necessary during the early establishment periods. As the days grow longer and the soil warms, the plants make good progress.
April 1 through May 15?EUR??,,????'??+ Normally, we cannot depend on rainfall at this time, so special attention can be given to the frequency of irrigations during the establishment period. Take care not to let the rootball dry out.
May 15 through June 30?EUR??,,????'??+ During this period, it is a good idea to choose cool, overcast days for handling the plants. Near the coast, there are fewer problems than one might encounter further inland. During the establishment period, weekly irrigations may be necessary.
Raleigh, North Carolina
Francisco Uviña, University of New Mexico
Hardscape Oasis in Litchfield Park
Ash Nochian, Ph.D. Landscape Architect
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