1. Water the tree the day it arrives. Large specimens sometimes take a day or more to load and tie in place lying down on the truck.
2. Ask the owner or architect to stake tree locations and to provide finished grade. Once the trees are set in planting pits, get approval from the landscape architect before removing boxes and backfilling. This way you will be in a better position to negotiate should a tree need to be moved.
3. Dig the planting pit no deeper than the height of the root ball. It is best to set root ball approximately two-inches to four-inches above finished grade. Over excavation of pit depth can result in settling.
4. On tall or large canopy specimens it is often necessary to guy the tree in place before removing the box in case the root ball has loosened during transport or the tree is just top heavy, which can result in a tree falling over when your crews cut the banding to remove the box.
5. Removing the box bottom is unnecessary and dangerous. The tree will be perfectly fine planted with the bottom on.
6. Never use large amounts of organic amendments in your tree backfill. As organic materials decompose, they can deplete the soil of oxygen due to limited gas exchange at lower soil depths, causing anaerobic soils. If amended backfill is called for in the specification, let the architect know it is best used only in the top 18 inches of backfill. One hundred percent native soil approved for backfill is best for a 48-inch box and larger.
7. Backfill should be tamped in by foot in 12-inch lifts. Don?EUR??,,????'???t plant when soil is wet or use a machine to compact backfill (unless hardscape will be installed over the backfill in which case you should discuss other options with the landscape architect such as structural soil.
8. A crane will likely be required for trees 60-inches and larger. It is best to have your crane rental company visit the site or ask the nursery supplying the tree to give you a price to off-load and set the trees. Construct an earth-watering basin four-inches to six-inches high on the perimeter of the root ball (not the perimeter of the planting pit) and fill it with water so it is forced to percolate into the root ball. Target a percolation depth of 18-inches to 24-inches for each watering and use a soil probe to verify percolation depth. It is not necessary to achieve water percolation down to the bottom of the root ball which is typically 42-inches to 46-inches deep. A watering schedule that allows the soil to breath between watering is best. Start with a watering frequency of twice a week. Keep in mind that field dug specimens are collected from a variety of locations and soil types so percolation rates and moisture dissipation will vary from tree to tree. Using a soil probe allows you to fine tune supplemental watering to each trees specific need. If watering basins must be removed you can use a soaker hose to apply water to the root ball.

The level of attention required to properly maintain and re-establish a mature field dug specimen is significant and should be viewed as an opportunity to sell your client a higher level of service and care for their most valuable landscape assets.

Research has shown that improper planting techniques, particularly planting ?EUR??,,????'??too deep?EUR??,,????'??, are a major cause of tree mortality in managed landscapes. In addition, research has shown accepted practices governing the size and shape of the planting hole and the nature of the ?EUR??,,????'??backfill?EUR??,,????'?? mixture require some modification.

Before choosing and planting a tree, consideration and careful attention should be given to the site itself. Each site should be evaluated for the following:

• Slope
• Hardiness
• Soil type
• Exposure
• Amount of Light
• Drainage
• Space or Size
• Soil pH/Nutrient availability

Close up Fact

2-3 – Recommended yards of organic matter to be worked into the soil for every 1,000 square feet of area to be planted.

2-4 – Inches shallower than the root ball that holes should be dug, and three to five times as wide.