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Relationship of brightness, or levels of light from one object to another or visual field to visual field, is the key that lets a lighting designer create depth, focal points, triangulation, framing, dimension and many other schemes. This relationship is crucial to the overall lighting portrait. When done properly, it will allow the eye to be directed through the portrait, establishing different points of reference and interest.
Defining a particular level of light as bright, medium, or dim can be confusing unless there is surrounding light to use as a reference. Bright and dim compared to what, I always like to say, because in reality it is only the apparent brightness that we see. This is why a low level of light can appear to be brighter than it really is because there's no surrounding light for reference. Also, people differ in what they perceive as bright and dim. It all s on age, time of day, whether you're indoors or out, the surrounding light intensity, and what you are accustomed to. But we do need some sort of understanding and measurement on how to determine a certain level of light. The scientific way to do this is actually measuring the level of light reflected from a surface in Foot Lamberts. An easier way is to compare the Levels of Light between each of the visual fields or objects on your lighting job.
It's important to understand that Levels of Light are not preset according to any particular standard. For example, Level 1 does not necessarily mean five foot-candles, Level 2 doesn't have to be 10 foot-candles, etc. The actual brightness of each Level of Light will differ from job to job depending on the apparent brightness between your visual fields or objects, which will either be connecting or contrasting.
Plant material, surfaces and textures, and the size of the yard also will help determine this relationship. Level 1 is generally achieved from the primary light in Level 2 and 3 areas hitting surfaces and bouncing back to illuminate paths or walkways with the resulting ambient light. Additionally, depending on color and surface texture, this ambient light can also bounce to another surface.
Level 1 is also used when you want dim lighting to fill in dark areas or to provide secondary perimeter or boundary lighting. Here, the use of lower wattage lamps or lenses and screens are appropriate to tone down the intensity of the lamp. Placing lamps further apart is not the answer, as doing so would only create black holes between fixtures and the apparent brightness would be brighter in the area lit. Levels 2 and 3 are achieved through proper fixture placement and technique and generally not through higher or lower wattage lamps.
The key here is to provide adequate contrast. This is the best way to distinguish the light relationship between your visual fields. The main issue here is to provide contrast. Think of providing contrast by having separate visual fields or frames. You can have either connecting fields or contrasting fields. A connecting field is when the light between objects or the objects themselves appear to be at the same light level. It can be any level of light, whether 1 to 1, 2 to 2, or 3 to 3.
In these cases, it doesn't matter because there's no contrast. The areas appear to be connected. A contrasting field is just that -there is contrast around that area. What really matters is that a change in light levels is perceived between visual fields, whether from darker to lighter, or lighter to darker. The contrast could also lie in the color or density of the material. You just need contrast.
In addition to proper placement there are several other ways to achieve contrast. First, you need to understand that light reacts in different ways when it hits a surface, and an awareness of the different types of surfaces you're likely to encounter is very important.
You can tell the difference between contrasting fields in ratios of Level 2 to 1. The ratio of 3 to 1 can become a focal point. Ratios above 4 or 5 to 1 can become too dominant of a visual force, create hot spots, and are usually not recommended (like brass and glass front door fixtures). Contrast is generally not achieved by using higher or lower wattage lamps. The reason for this is that if you are lighting up a small shrub or tree, a 20-watt lamp is just as bright as a higher wattage lamp. Just shine a flashlight on an object as you stand close to it and you'll see what I mean. The effect is really apparent when the fixture is close to the object.
Rather, contrast is more a function of the amount of light arriving at the object's surface, dictated by its distance from the fixture. This is why lamp photometrics, provided by manufacturers, are so important. The further you move the fixture away from the object, the less light you'll have on it.
This is where the inverse square law comes into play. This law states that when you double the distance from the fixture to the surface, you use one quarter of the light-which means you have now reduced the light by 25 percent.
My whole philosophy is based on this premise: lighting up enough surface area to get reflected light from the landscape or structure. This will give you the different levels of light required to enjoy the property while providing safety and security. Think of it like this. If you turn on a table lamp with a 60 watt bulb in it, that one bulb will cast light over the whole room because of the reflected light from the walls. Dark-colored painted walls will obviously reduce the reflective value of the light emitted from the lamp. White walls will increase it.
Establishing relationship of brightness is one way to help you figure out the reflective value of light given off a surface. Learning the reflective values of the objects you're lighting up is an important step in your lighting proficiency. Some plant and building materials reflect light better, while some suck up light like a black hole in space.
There are really three ways light reacts to the surface it hits. Let's look at each.
1. Reflection. Reflection is defined as the amount of light that bounces back into space from the surface.
2. Absorption: All surfaces absorb some light, and texture is a factor as well as the color of the surface. This is why a black shirt or a black car feels hot to the touch and a white shirt or car does not.
3. Transmission: This is the amount of light that goes through a medium. For example, if a plant's density is more translucent, the light can travel through the leaf. This is where placing a fixture under or behind a plant will not silhouette the plant but make it glow.
I always try to take advantage of the plant material on site. It's a great way to provide contrast. Just remember, contrast is the key. And you get contrast through color, density and placement of fixtures, technique, and surface texture. By adding this know-how to your tools as a lighting designer, you will be able to walk onto any site, use the home and landscape as a canvas, and paint a lighting portrait.
For the April issue, LCN received more than 80 high-resolution submission photos from across the U.S. We also were pleased to receive a batch of impressive photos from the Studio Dekor, one of the biggest lighting design and installation firms in Turkey.
Among the firm's recent jobs is its impressive lighting for the Esma Sultan house in Istanbul. Princess Esma (or Esma Sultan) was an Ottoman noblewomen born in 1778. She was widowed at the age of 25 and, unlike most Ottoman princesses, never remarried.
During the reign of her brother Mahmud she was one of the richest women in Constantinople.
Esma Sultan briefly became a candidate for leader of the Ottoman Empire when her brother Mustafa was murdered in 1807, before completing his first year in power.
The elite-guard troops known as Janissaries proposed Esma Sultan to succeed to the throne. But general Alemdar Mustafa Pasha saved Mahmut from a death sentence and installed him on the throne. If they had not done this, Princess Esma would have become the first woman leader of the Ottoman Empire.
Esma Sultan's Yalis (mansion) dominates an exclusive corner on the European shores of the Bosphorus, as if to control the flow of traffic between Europe and Asia, and remains a magnificent ruin in the colorful neighborhood of Ortakšy. It is used for banquets, conferences and other events.
Sources: Wikipedia, …zlem F. Celik, studiodekor.com
LEVEL 1: Low level. Use this level for pathways, sidewalks, driveways, and to fill in dark areas or black holes and in certain areas to extend the space and define boundaries.
LEVEL 2: Medium level. Use this level between focal points. It should be bright enough to connect the focal points and provide either contrast or continuity for good visual transition. Think of Level 2 as a connecting bridge of light.
LEVEL 3: Highest level. Use this level for focal points and depth, anchor points, entries, sub-scenes, and any area in the yard that you want to make visually active (or draw attention to).
Francisco Uviña, University of New Mexico
Hardscape Oasis in Litchfield Park
Ash Nochian, Ph.D. Landscape Architect
November 12th, 2025
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