Anchoring & Staking:

Should You or Shouldn’t You?

By Paul Wray, Iowa State University Forestry Extension

Tree staking may be the least understood tree care practice, and is often not used in such a way that it actually benefits the tree. Sometimes new plantings may need to be staked to protect them from lawnmowers. Sometimes it’s necessary to anchor the tree in place until its roots have solidly planted themselves. However, before staking new plantings, think about the effects on the tree and compare those effects to not staking the tree.

Trees may be more damaged and less able to support themselves because of rubbing or girdling from the stakes and ties, stress at the point of stake attachment or weakened down toward the base of the tree because trunk movement is required for optimum strength during development. Staking, as a result, is a cultural practice that requires a lot of maintenance for optimum benefit to the tree. If possible, avoid staking or guying trees. Small trees less than six feet tall or one inch in diameter shouldn?EUR??,,????'???t need staking. Larger trees may not have a root system or pot size sufficient to keep them from leaning or tipping. Watch them closely for a day or two after planting. If the plant stem at the soil line is moving excessively creating a crowbar hole larger than a quarter of an inch or larger than the stem of the tree, it probably needs support.

If the tree is staked so tightly that it doesn’t move, it increases the possibility of breakage just above the staking point. The tops of the stakes are notched to hold the wire which is then fastened two-thirds of the way up the trunk. Bear in mind that the standard of wire inside a hose is not as good as the wider, softer materials because it may cause damage to the tree.

Stakes for anchoring can be wooden, steel post, metal pipe, rebar or other material. Each tree requires at least three stakes. The tie material that will come in contact with the trunk of the tree should be broad and have a smooth surface to minimize trunk abrasion and girdling. Some common tie materials are wide cloth belting, elastic webbing, wide rubber belts, nylon stockings as well as many patented ties and support devices. Materials that may abrade and cut into the stem of the tree such as wire, string, and fishing line are not appropriate.

The stakes should be driven 18 to 36 inches into the ground at a 45-degree angle away from the trunk. It is absolutely essential that all the stakes be firmly fixed so that one or more of them will not pull out in high winds. Very large trees may not be adequately supported with fabric or belt ties, however. These trees may require the use of eyebolts screwed into the trees for anchoring. Use eyebolts only when the other techniques of fastening the ties aren’t adequate for the size of the tree. Normally, trees less than four inches in diameter can be supported without using eyebolts. The other ends of the wires should be fastened equally tightly to the stakes without putting strain on the trunk. The wires should be firm but loose enough to allow slight movement of the plant. The goal is simply to keep the plant from blowing over. Check the wiring occasionally to be sure it’s tight enough yet not causing the tree injury.

Most trees should be staked for only a minimum amount of time to let the tree develop maximum wood strength. With most trees, the ties may be removed after the first growing season. For large trees, two years of support may be necessary. Support staking is necessary for trees that aren’t strong enough to stand without support or trees that don’t return to the upright position after winds, snow or ice. It’s best to remove the staking as soon as the tree can support itself since all trees staked more than two years have a greater probability of breakage than those staked for shorter periods of time.