Building A Residential Pond

By Rick Bartel, a Master Pond Builder and owner of Autumn Mist Aquatics, who has been designing and installing custom water features for more than eighteen years.

When placing rocks and boulders do not think along one or two planes of view. Think three- dimensionally. Your rockwork may look great from one angle but not from another. Walk around and view your work from every possible vantage point.

"Master Pond Builder?EUR??,,????'?????<www.savio.com, and become a member of the National Association of Pond Professionals, nationalpondpro.org, the only non-profit organization for the pond industry. This will go a long way when potential clients choose your company over your competitors as they consider adding a water feature to their landscape. Consider also that there are a dozen types of water features applicable to residential use, and not all of them can be discussed here in this limited space, as we take a look at the basic principles needed for the successful design and installation of a residential pond.

 

When determining the location of your water feature, consider the slope of the ground to avoid rain water run-off and the possibilities of pesticides and fertilizers getting into the pond system from the surrounding landscape and lawn areas. It is vitally important to keep water within a water feature; as well as keeping external sources of water out.

Do not get carried away with complex, intricate excavations causing difficulties with liner placement and allowing for stagnant water. Remove any objects that may cause damage to the pond liner such as rocks and roots.

Site Selection

Once you have a water feature client, your first course of action is to select the proper site. Contact local utility companies or a utility location service and have all utilities marked. This is an important safety factor as well as the law and repairing utility lines can be expensive. Next, you need to consider the view. Where does the homeowner spend most of their time? Where can you place the water feature and make it most visible? Now you need to know what type of water feature the client wants or needs. Many of you will mistakenly think this is a design issue; it is not; the type of water feature will greatly affect its location. Will it contain fish or aquatic plants? What does the client want to achieve? What is their ultimate goal? The point here is to make sure you ask all of the correct questions and select a water feature that will fit their needs, their lifestyle and their budget. Once the type of water feature has been selected, you need to consider the surrounding plant material. Are there any trees that will drop large numbers of leaves into the pond creating filtration issues? The trees will have roots, affecting excavation. How much sunlight will the pond receive daily? Blooming aquatic plants require four to six hours of daily sunlight.

In order to maintain water clarity many landscapers have their own preferences for the type of mulch used. However, according to the author, shredded hardwood is the only mulch that will consistently stay in place and not clog up your filter; particularly around water.

Design

Armed with all of your knowledge, it is time to design their system. Calculate the pond size and depth. Factor in several plant shelves at various depths for displaying aquatic plants. Keep these shelves away from the waterfall area where the water is more agitated. Select all of your components at this time as their size and location will affect your design. The waterfall should be at one end and filter at the other, allowing for good circulation. Place the waterfall at an angle where it can be readily viewed and the filtration unit where it can be adequately hidden. A residential system should be as low maintenance as possible. Today?EUR??,,????'?????<

Plumbing has these considerations: the diameter of the pipe, the length of the pipe and the number of fittings used directly affect head pressure which can reduce the end flow from the pump to the waterfall. A good rule is to use a bigger pump and bigger pipe with fewer fittings and control the flow with a valve. Estimate the materials needed; such as rocks and boulders; and the labor to complete the project. During this time you can finalize your cost projections to present to your client along with the completed design.

To check the installation of your components fill the pond with water and test for leaks, optimum water level, pump and filter performance, etc. This procedure is optional but will give you great peace of mind going into the final phase of construction.

Excavation

Now that you have a safe and visible location and a practical, functional design, it is time to begin excavation. Most residential ponds are of a size that can be dug by hand; however a backhoe can make the process much easier and faster. Ponds can take many shapes and sizes but basically should contain three levels. The top level is the coping shelf, where you will place most of the rocks and boulders. This shelf must be level and approximately two or three inches below water line, giving a more natural shoreline after construction is complete and the pond has been filled to capacity. The next level will be the plant shelves. These shelves should generally be eight to twelve inches below water level giving a wide variety of locations for displaying aquatic plants. The third level will be the pond bottom. The overall size of the water feature will determine the depth of the bottom, usually between twenty to thirty inches but can be regulated by local ordinances. Excavated soil can be used to create a small hill for the waterfall, if the site is relatively flat. This also eliminates the need to haul off the excavated soil.

Underlayment and Liner

Underlayment is a non-woven, geotextile fabric that provides padding and protection for the liner. The underlayment can be placed in one large piece or several smaller, easier to handle pieces. Fold the underlayment as flat as possible, completely covering the entire pond area before placing the liner. There have been several types of liners over the years but by far the easiest to work with and most popular is EPDM flexible rubber liner, it is readily available and is easy to patch should damage occur. The liner should be kept in one single piece, thus avoiding splices and potential leaks. Use caution when placing the liner; be sure not to drag it into the pond, disturbing the underlayment. Be sure that you have plenty of excess on each side, especially where the liner will attach to the filter. After the liner is roughly in place over the underlayment, start smoothing it carefully from one side to the other. One or two larger folds are better than several smaller folds. Be cautious of sharp objects or tools used in or around liners and check the soles of your shoes before walking on the liner. DO NOT trim any liner at this time; this procedure is reserved for later.

When deciding what type of water feature to install it is important to ask your clients if they want to enjoy it from a particular location, then actually view the site from that location to see if there are any obstacles that may hinder visibility.

Pump and Filtration System

Properly install the heart of the system according to manufacturers?EUR??,,????'?????<

Rock and Boulder Placement

This is an important step for any water feature, the part everyone will see. This will separate the bad jobs from the good and make the awesome projects shine. All other steps should be completely hidden; the excavation, the pumps and filters, liner?EUR??,,????'?????<

Final Step

Clean out the pond and fill it with water. Trim off any excess liner at this time, leaving about four inches on all sides, which can be folded down and hidden in the landscape. This will allow you to make subtle adjustments later if necessary.

If you have an interest in seeing other extremely popular, easy to install and profitable alternatives for residential water features visit, www.AutumnMistAquatics.com

Water Facts

50,000: The approximate number of farm ponds in Virginia. These ponds range in size from less than one acre to more than 30 acres.

20 to 25: Feet, the maximum recommended height of dams for a good pond site. Dams higher than this are expensive to build and frequently stratify in summer resulting in deep water areas unsuitable for aquatic life. Source: Virginia Cooperative Extension