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Landscape contractors know that there are many names for light fixtures that are installed in the ground; in-ground, well- light, or in-grade, are a few of the more common terms. Many people including lighting distributors, electrical contractors, even landscape designers and your own client, incorrectly use these names interchangeably. In-ground and well-light, for example, represent two different fixture design approaches.
The well-light, as you can imagine, is a well-like structure that fits into a hole dug into the ground. The well has a light and ballast module suspended inside it. The main benefit of this design approach is the ability of the fixture to exhaust heat and run cooler. However, exhaust apertures that allow heat to escape, also allow water and debris to enter the well.
It is imperative when using well lights to provide excellent drainage from the fixture well to the earth around the inside of the hole. The well and exhaust apertures of the landscape lighting fixture must be kept clear of debris: leaves, twigs, wrappers, cigarette butts and the like. If the ballast and light modules stand in water for prolonged periods of time, problems occur, even for fixtures that are wet listed. If landscape materials block exhausts, overheating also occurs.
In-ground light fixtures, by comparison, do not allow water and heat to flow through the well, but seal it at the top and bottom. The main advantage of this more contemporary professional design approach is fewer interfaces need to be made watertight, i.e., the entry point at the ground surface, and electrical junction box at the bottom or side of the fixture.
Several manufactures now offer above-ground fixtures that minimize, even eliminate, corrosion and operational issues caused by standing water and debris. An above-ground fixture, or semi-in-ground fixture, are essentially in-ground fixtures that protrude above grade level, usually with an external, often vandal-resistant, sleeve; from a few inches up to several feet. The added benefit of this approach is ability to position light fixtures at the same height as, or above, surrounding foliage.
This allows fixtures to properly function, even after several years of continuous plant growth. Above-ground fixtures are becoming more popular today and should be considered when ground vegetation surrounds objects to be illuminated. In sum, the professional landscape contractor needs to think ahead when embarking on a project, and to advise their end client, or design specifier, accordingly.
If a fixture is to be installed in locations near foliage ground cover, either elevate the fixture using an above-ground sleeve, or make sure there is adequate clearance around the fixture. This clearance area will probably have to be trimmed periodically throughout growing seasons.
It is important for the landscape contractor to understand how light from a fixture interacts with an object to be illuminated. Make sure an in-ground fixture is set back correctly from the object to be illuminated. For example, spot (narrow beam) optics may require a fixture to be placed one or two feet away from the object to be illuminated.
If people can walk on the in-ground fixture, make sure you are aware of the temperatures on the fixture lens. High-wattage lamps can easily generate enough heat to burn skin, if pedestrians are barefoot, or if children touch an illuminated fixture. Remember, dogs on a leash are barefoot, too. Many manufacturers now offer dual-lens units that considerably reduce surface-lens temperatures.
Choosing a carefully designed, not cheaply or shoddily designed, in-ground fixture is key. Make sure the fixture is ETL or UL listed for wet locations. Make sure the fixture has an IP (Ingress Protection) rating of 67, which is dust tight, thus debris-tight, and water-proof (protected against effects of immersion between 15cm and 1m).
Use lamp sources that have long operating lives. Metal halide and fluorescents often have up to 10,000 hours, or more. The fewer times you, or a client?EUR??,,????'???s general maintenance staff, need to open a landscape lighting fixture, especially in-ground, the less likelihood there is for problems and client unhappiness. Minimizing the need for lamp replacements greatly reduces call-backs over the life of an installation. It makes good environmental sense to avoid ordinary incandescent lamps with short life spans. This is not always possible, especially in residential situations. Try to minimize post-installation maintenance as much as possible.
Fixtures with sealed ballast compartments and anti-wicking devices between junction box and ballast compartment are what should be used. In-ground fixtures with small amounts of moisture inside them will often run without problems if the ballast is kept dry. Anti-wicking eliminates the siphoning of water through stranded cables, because of pressure changes in the fixture.
Die-cast bronze lens rings, with captive screws and high-temperature injection-molded silicone gaskets, ease the installation process. Bronze will not degrade in the landscape and its strength allows high-torque tightening of the lens-sealing surface. Captive screws, probably stainless steel, are a must, as missing or incorrectly replaced screws often do not provide sufficient compression on gasketed surfaces, will corrode or work loose.
Always use water-proof wire nuts to make electrical connections. Better landscape lighting manufacturers supply them as standard with their fixtures.
Professional-grade in-ground fixtures do not require covers to protect them from lawn mowers or other lawn and landscaping maintenance devices. Using external grates or louvers can be useful to reduce glare, but these devices can also collect natural or manmade debris that masks light output. Internal glare shields for in-ground fixtures are preferred and commonly available.
Many in-ground fixtures now have drive-over capability built in or available as an option. When evaluating lens-weight claims of different landscape lighting manufacturers, some use GVW (Gross Vehicular Weight), while others use Maximum Weight Per Square Inch. There are some assumptions, and math to help you get from one to the other, but the differences make it difficult to compare.
Most U.S. manufacturers now provide composite technology housings, as an option to metal. They have actually been available for years, and use proven ?EUR??,,????'??Space Age?EUR??,,????'?? or ?EUR??,,????'??Information Age,?EUR??,,????'?? materials. Composite housings for lighting fixtures are a preferred material for in-ground and above-ground landscape installations.
Aluminum housings are still provided by some manufacturers but, without additional protection, are susceptible to severe degradation from chemicals often found in today?EUR??,,????'???s recycled water and fertilizers. Brass is sometimes used in the landscape setting, but is more expensive than aluminum or composite.
ALLSCAPE designs and manufactures a broad array of energy-efficient, corrosion-resistant, contemporary-design pedestrian-level outdoor landscape lighting fixtures of all kinds, for commercial and upscale residential use.
10-2: The recommended gauge of wire for the main cable when connecting low voltage lighting in a ?EUR??,,????'??T?EUR??,,????'?? installation. The main cable can also be 8-2.
125: Feet, the maximum cable length of 8-2 gauge cable for fixtures of 300 watts.
Francisco Uviña, University of New Mexico
Hardscape Oasis in Litchfield Park
Ash Nochian, Ph.D. Landscape Architect
November 12th, 2025
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