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More than any other sport, football causes a large area of compaction in a concentrated space?EUR??,,????'?????< Many cool season fields are seeded every spring in hopes they will be ready for competition in late August. Warm season fields are aerated and fertilized with the same hopes. But if the middle is bare at the end of the season, like the field in Figure 1, there is not enough time for the turf to mature before competition begins. If more than 35 annual events are to be played on the field, the center may show signs of thinning by mid-season.
Many cool season fields are seeded every spring in hopes they will be ready for competition in late August. Warm season fields are aerated and fertilized with the same hopes. But if the middle is bare at the end of the season, like the field in Figure 1, there is not enough time for the turf to mature before competition begins. If more than 35 annual events are to be played on the field, the center may show signs of thinning by mid-season.
Sod it and the season will begin with a full, thick, stand of grass. At first reaction, this may seem a little extreme and maybe even too costly. But if no other work needs to be done, like under drains, irrigation, or importing topsoil, the total cost should be under $50,000. What?EUR??,,????'?????<
To make sure you?EUR??,,????'?????< Many people assume football fields are crowned down the center when in fact many fields are built with a side-to-side slope. This design works well as long as someone doesn?EUR??,,????'?????< Step 2. Grass Removal After the design is finished, it?EUR??,,????'?????< The most economical, efficient and beneficial way of getting rid of the existing grass is to plow it under as showed in Figure 2. Plowing the soil under allows for better soil on top for turfgrass roots to establish. This is an old method of farming using an old tractor and plow, but it still works. Usually the top inch or two of soil is so compacted that it has lost its structure. For best results, turn the soil (and the grass) over: The soil that is 4 to 5 inches below the surface is not as compacted as the top couple inches and has better soil structure. Plowing the soil under allows for better soil on top for turfgrass roots to establish. This is an old method of farming using an old tractor and plow, but it still works. Step 3. Scarify Scarify the soil to break up the large clumps left behind by the plow to prepare the field for grading. Use a disc (like the one in Figure 3), a rototiller, or a pulverizer to accomplish this step. An old-fashion farmer?EUR??,,????'?????< If the sod comes back to the surface, it may take three to four weeks for the sod to decay. During this time, continue to scarify at least once a week to break up the clumps. Eventually there will be very little grass and mostly soil to begin the grading process. If you?EUR??,,????'?????< An old fashion farmer?EUR??,,????'?????< Step 4. Grading Grade the field by cutting high spots and filling low spots as per your grading plan. Additional soil can be brought in if there?EUR??,,????'?????< For this process, it?EUR??,,????'?????< It?EUR??,,????'?????< Step 5. Sodding In the warm season zone, bermudagrass is the turf of choice for football fields; in the cool season zone, it?EUR??,,????'?????< Kentucky bluegrass seed takes more than a year to develop a thatch layer and bermudagrass takes several months. For this reason, seeding is not recommended for football fields. However, bermudagrass sprigging is an option as long as you have 10 to 12 weeks before using the field for competition. Allow 6-8 weeks before using a sodded field. With a newly sodded field, you?EUR??,,????'?????< About the author: Jim Puhalla is the president of Sportscape International, Inc. of Boardman, Ohio and co-author (with professors Jeff Krans and Mike Goatley) of two books: Sports Fields?EUR??,,????'?????< He can be reached toll free at 888-784-5586 or by email: info@sportscapeonline.com
Many people assume football fields are crowned down the center when in fact many fields are built with a side-to-side slope. This design works well as long as someone doesn?EUR??,,????'?????<
After the design is finished, it?EUR??,,????'?????< The most economical, efficient and beneficial way of getting rid of the existing grass is to plow it under as showed in Figure 2. Plowing the soil under allows for better soil on top for turfgrass roots to establish. This is an old method of farming using an old tractor and plow, but it still works. Usually the top inch or two of soil is so compacted that it has lost its structure. For best results, turn the soil (and the grass) over: The soil that is 4 to 5 inches below the surface is not as compacted as the top couple inches and has better soil structure.
The most economical, efficient and beneficial way of getting rid of the existing grass is to plow it under as showed in Figure 2. Plowing the soil under allows for better soil on top for turfgrass roots to establish. This is an old method of farming using an old tractor and plow, but it still works. Usually the top inch or two of soil is so compacted that it has lost its structure. For best results, turn the soil (and the grass) over: The soil that is 4 to 5 inches below the surface is not as compacted as the top couple inches and has better soil structure.
Scarify the soil to break up the large clumps left behind by the plow to prepare the field for grading. Use a disc (like the one in Figure 3), a rototiller, or a pulverizer to accomplish this step. An old-fashion farmer?EUR??,,????'?????< If the sod comes back to the surface, it may take three to four weeks for the sod to decay. During this time, continue to scarify at least once a week to break up the clumps. Eventually there will be very little grass and mostly soil to begin the grading process. If you?EUR??,,????'?????< An old fashion farmer?EUR??,,????'?????< Step 4. Grading Grade the field by cutting high spots and filling low spots as per your grading plan. Additional soil can be brought in if there?EUR??,,????'?????< For this process, it?EUR??,,????'?????< It?EUR??,,????'?????< Step 5. Sodding In the warm season zone, bermudagrass is the turf of choice for football fields; in the cool season zone, it?EUR??,,????'?????< Kentucky bluegrass seed takes more than a year to develop a thatch layer and bermudagrass takes several months. For this reason, seeding is not recommended for football fields. However, bermudagrass sprigging is an option as long as you have 10 to 12 weeks before using the field for competition. Allow 6-8 weeks before using a sodded field. With a newly sodded field, you?EUR??,,????'?????< About the author: Jim Puhalla is the president of Sportscape International, Inc. of Boardman, Ohio and co-author (with professors Jeff Krans and Mike Goatley) of two books: Sports Fields?EUR??,,????'?????< He can be reached toll free at 888-784-5586 or by email: info@sportscapeonline.com
If the sod comes back to the surface, it may take three to four weeks for the sod to decay. During this time, continue to scarify at least once a week to break up the clumps. Eventually there will be very little grass and mostly soil to begin the grading process. If you?EUR??,,????'?????<
Grade the field by cutting high spots and filling low spots as per your grading plan. Additional soil can be brought in if there?EUR??,,????'?????< For this process, it?EUR??,,????'?????< It?EUR??,,????'?????< Step 5. Sodding In the warm season zone, bermudagrass is the turf of choice for football fields; in the cool season zone, it?EUR??,,????'?????< Kentucky bluegrass seed takes more than a year to develop a thatch layer and bermudagrass takes several months. For this reason, seeding is not recommended for football fields. However, bermudagrass sprigging is an option as long as you have 10 to 12 weeks before using the field for competition. Allow 6-8 weeks before using a sodded field. With a newly sodded field, you?EUR??,,????'?????< About the author: Jim Puhalla is the president of Sportscape International, Inc. of Boardman, Ohio and co-author (with professors Jeff Krans and Mike Goatley) of two books: Sports Fields?EUR??,,????'?????< He can be reached toll free at 888-784-5586 or by email: info@sportscapeonline.com
For this process, it?EUR??,,????'?????<
In the warm season zone, bermudagrass is the turf of choice for football fields; in the cool season zone, it?EUR??,,????'?????< Kentucky bluegrass seed takes more than a year to develop a thatch layer and bermudagrass takes several months. For this reason, seeding is not recommended for football fields. However, bermudagrass sprigging is an option as long as you have 10 to 12 weeks before using the field for competition. Allow 6-8 weeks before using a sodded field. With a newly sodded field, you?EUR??,,????'?????< About the author: Jim Puhalla is the president of Sportscape International, Inc. of Boardman, Ohio and co-author (with professors Jeff Krans and Mike Goatley) of two books: Sports Fields?EUR??,,????'?????< He can be reached toll free at 888-784-5586 or by email: info@sportscapeonline.com
Kentucky bluegrass seed takes more than a year to develop a thatch layer and bermudagrass takes several months. For this reason, seeding is not recommended for football fields. However, bermudagrass sprigging is an option as long as you have 10 to 12 weeks before using the field for competition. Allow 6-8 weeks before using a sodded field.
With a newly sodded field, you?EUR??,,????'?????<
Jim Puhalla is the president of Sportscape International, Inc. of Boardman, Ohio and co-author (with professors Jeff Krans and Mike Goatley) of two books: Sports Fields?EUR??,,????'?????< He can be reached toll free at 888-784-5586 or by email: info@sportscapeonline.com
He can be reached toll free at 888-784-5586 or by email: info@sportscapeonline.com
Francisco Uviña, University of New Mexico
Hardscape Oasis in Litchfield Park
Ash Nochian, Ph.D. Landscape Architect
November 12th, 2025
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