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Designer Motor Fuel: Generally this is what is known as gas. Those of us who grew up with muscle cars once used real gasoline. What we buy at the pump today in no way resembles it, except it still runs engines?EUR??,,????'??+or tries to.
Today?EUR??,,????'???s motor fuel is loaded with ingredients only a chemist can pronounce, or understand their functions. Their main purpose is to produce cleaner exhaust emissions, not enhance engine performance. The shelf-life of the fuel is non-existent, unless you consider 30 days much of a life. Stored fuel may run engines when it?EUR??,,????'???s older, but starting a cold engine will begin to become progressively difficult. Old fuel (over 30 days young) will begin coating the insides of the carb with a shellac-type goo. Valve stems can become stuck to the valve guides. Poor combustion will cause excessive deposits in the combustion chamber and exhaust ports will clog up. It?EUR??,,????'???s not a pretty sight when you disassemble the components. Depending on the original quality of the fuel, after two or three months it may not run anything.
Using quality fuel is more important today than ever. Brand quality will vary from one area to another but normally, choosing a major brand from a busy station will provide you with the freshest, best-quality fuel. Most 4-cycle engines recommend 87 or 89 octane and 2-cycle engine manufacturers will advise 89 to 92 octane.
Remember, the manufacturer?EUR??,,????'???s recommendation is the minimum. I advise people to use 92 octane for all outdoor power equipment. Quality control at the refinery is usually tighter on the premium fuel, providing for fewer combustion deposits and more reliable performance. Using a major brand, high-octane fuel from a busy station will give you better all around performance with less chance of impurities.
For many years folks have gotten away with using 4-cycle oil to mix with fuel for their 2-cycle engines powering blowers, trimmers and other equipment. Indeed, that was what many manufacturers recommended. Not anymore. The same was true regarding the use of 2-cycle boat oil in 2-cycle outdoor power equipment. Unless you want to use your power equipment as an anchor for your boat, don?EUR??,,????'???t do it.
Two-cycle outdoor power equipment today is a different animal. Twenty years ago a high revving 2-cycle would have turned 9,000 rpm, most much less. Today some are turning 16,000 RPM with the average around 10,000 to 14,000 rpm. Boat oil is made for relatively slow revving, cool-running water-cooled engines. Two-cycle outdoor power equipment engines are air-cooled and run much hotter. Boat 2-cycle or 4-cycle oil will cook a chain saw or line trimmer in a hurry. Today?EUR??,,????'???s 2-cycle air-cooled power equipment requires oil made for them. Use one of the oils made for one of the quality 2-cycle power equipment engine manufacturers.
Fuel/oil ratios are very important for the life of an engine. Most 2-cycle engines today are advised to have the fuel/oil ratio mixed at either 40 to 1?EUR??,,????'??+or more likely 50 to 1. In other words, 50 parts of fuel to one part oil. One gallon of fuel is 128 fluid oz. Divide that by 50 and you come up with 2.56 fluid oz. of oil needed to mix with that one gallon of fuel. Just 2.5 oz. of oil?EUR??,,????'??+that?EUR??,,????'???s not much but it?EUR??,,????'???s critical to get the measurement as accurate as possible. Never try to estimate fuel and oil as you pour them into the equipment?EUR??,,????'???s fuel tank. You?EUR??,,????'???re not likely to get it right.
Today?EUR??,,????'???s equipment has little if any outward adjustability to compensate for fuel or air flow variables. This is so the engines can meet the new emission laws and not need to be recertified every year. If the carburetor had the same easily-adjustable and tamperable jet screws of the past the feds wouldn?EUR??,,????'???t allow the engines to be sold.
Choosing oil for a 4-cycle gasoline lawnmower engine is fairly straightforward. If you still have your owner?EUR??,,????'???s manual, check it for any variables. Generally 4-cycles are good to go with a quality automotive 30w oil. For cold climates (when the outside temperatures drop below freezing during the time of use) change the oil to a 5w-30 or 10w-30. When it warms back up change back to straight 30w. A single-viscosity oil is best whenever possible for power equipment due to being air cooled and the resulting higher operating temperatures. In a pinch, the multi-viscosity oils are OK when it?EUR??,,????'???s hot, but change these blends out as soon as possible before the oil breaks down under the hot running conditions. Sticking with a major brand is the safest choice for quality.
New equipment should have its first oil change inside the first five hours of running time. If you only run your equipment a half hour per week, change the oil after a month on a new unit. New engines have a lot of initial break-in contaminants and need to be replaced early. No special break-in oil is needed or advised. Use the regular good quality oil you plan to continue to use. After that, change the oil every 25 hours of running time or once a year. If your equipment is used in dusty conditions change the oil more often. Engines with an oil filter usually need less frequent oil changes in terms of hours used. Check your manual or ask your dealer. If you use your engine in sub-freezing conditions in the winter you need to replace the 30-weight oil (standard for normal conditions) with a 5W 30 or 10W 30. Remember to return to the straight 30-weight when it warms up.
Spark plugs are cheap. Replace them when you change the oil. If you have a 2-cycle where oil changes aren?EUR??,,????'???t needed, replace the plug when you clean or replace the air filter. Plug gap and type are important. Check your owner?EUR??,,????'???s manual for correct type and gap. All new engines since 1995 have been required to meet emission regulations and tampering with emission-control hardware is illegal. Spark plugs are part of the emission package. Every new engine regardless of the equipment it powers, comes with an owner?EUR??,,????'???s manual which states emission and maintenance requirements and the spark plug type and gap specification. It?EUR??,,????'???s not likely that the consumer will be cited and charged with emission tampering, but the law does exist.
Stuff a pillow in your face and see how easy it is to breathe! I see a lot of equipment that has excess combustion chamber carbon build up and prematurely fouled spark plugs. That happens because the user hasn?EUR??,,????'???t serviced the air filter. What they?EUR??,,????'???ve done is stick a pillow in front of the carburetor and expected the engine to perform flawlessly. Mowers, tillers and other lawn and garden equipment live right next to the ground and it?EUR??,,????'???s an extremely dirty environment. Check the air filter?EUR??,,????'???s condition every couple of tanks of gas until you get a good idea how long you can go between air filter servicing. If you?EUR??,,????'???re mowing a lush green lawn the filter will probably be good until it?EUR??,,????'???s time to change the oil. On the other hand, a rototiller may need its air filter serviced in less than an hour.
Filters come in two basic types. Paper cartridge (much like you may be familiar with in your car) and oiled foam. Some paper cartridges have a foam pre-filter. These usually are not oiled because over oiling can cause oil transfer to the paper filter and destroy it. When a paper filter gets dirty it gets replaced. Foam filters, if not deteriorated, can be washed in hot soapy water, re-oiled with 30 wt. motor oil and re-installed.
For the better part of 20 years of repairing outdoor power equipment I?EUR??,,????'???ve managed to avoid any serious injuries. That?EUR??,,????'???s something I plan to continue. Injuries from power equipment aren?EUR??,,????'???t a joking matter.
Every year, from lawn mowers alone, over 60,000 people receive injuries serious enough to require some sort of medical treatment. If all other forms of power equipment injuries were figured in it could be considered a national epidemic. Remember, all outdoor power equipment for the lawn and garden has in one form or another the primary function of cutting, slicing, dicing or shredding. Hands, feet, fingers and toes will get mixed in with the primary function and the equipment won?EUR??,,????'???t notice or care. All power equipment will have moving parts, drive belts or chains, blades, clutches, fans, axles, tires, flywheel and the list goes on. Keeping your body away from these moving parts is the key to avoiding injuries. Long hair and loose clothing can get drawn in and suck you in with it.
Anytime you?EUR??,,????'???re maintaining power equipment, treat it like a loaded gun. A rotor mower has more potential destructive force than a 357 magnum! Always, disconnect the spark plug wire when repairing or maintaining equipment. Better yet, remove the spark plug until you have finished the repair. The purpose is to avoid an accidental engine kick over while you?EUR??,,????'???ve got vulnerable body pieces in and around dangerous equipment parts.
Always shut off the engine and let it sit and cool for a few minutes prior to re-fueling. If you were to run these units at night and looked right up the exhaust opening, you?EUR??,,????'???d see it glowing red hot. Spilled gas while re-fueling could explode in your face. In fact, as much as 30 percent of the air pollution from the use of power equipment is the result of spilled fuel which then evaporates into the air. One gallon of motor fuel has as much explosive potential as several sticks of dynamite.
Re-fuel outdoors, with the engine cool, away from any sparks, flame or heat source.
Francisco Uviña, University of New Mexico
Hardscape Oasis in Litchfield Park
Ash Nochian, Ph.D. Landscape Architect
November 12th, 2025
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