Selection

Choosing the right plant for the right spot is much better than trying to alter the conditions of the site to suit the needs of a particular plant. This is true with any group of plants. Usually natives are reserved for the hottest, dryest, most punishing spots in the yard. The attitude is often expressed, “It’s a native! It ought to grow here!”

All plants are native somewhere. Some of our California native plants will tolerate just about any conditions we can find for them. But we should use common sense (and a few good horticultural references) to determine how to select the best plant for any given situation. Some plants are a little more particular than others. Unfortunately, when those are subjected to conditions they cannot tolerate, they fail. Then the excuse can be heard, “I tried native plants but they didn’t work.”

It is important to know the requirements and the tolerances of your plants.

Site Preparation

The extent to which we alter the actual planting site for the sake of the plants is determined by the selection of plants as mentioned above. Obviously, to retain the theme of “Waterwise Landscaping,” and its economic implications, we want to concentrate on minimum site preparation.

Depending on the soil and environmental conditions on the site before planting, we can see that the larger plants in large containers usually require more soil amendment. Also, if the environmental conditions (wind, light, temperature, soil moisture, etc.) do not closely match those of the nursery in which the plant was raised, we can expect adaptation problems. The smaller plants from small containers (liner, plant bend, 1, 2, and sometimes 5 gallon size) can usually adapt to the change from the nursery to the site.

Suffice to say that soil amendment, pre-moistened soil, and pre-plant fertilizer will benefit most plants including natives. With California natives, extensive site preparation is a necessity when specimen size container plants are used; it is a luxury any other time.

Sprinklers

Irrigation systems are designed to meet the needs of the plants. While this may seem incredibly basic, it is the most important factor in sprinkler system design. How many times do we find ourselves looking for a palette of plants for a new landscape that will tolerate the proposed irrigation schedule? This is a backwards aproach. We must alter the type of sprinklers or the watering program to meet the needs of the plants we choose, not try to find plant materials that will the “needs” of our presupposed irrigation system.

For water conservation in any garden, low precipitation and slow application are the most effective watering methods. Some of the components available today include drip, low fan spray, stream spray or subsurface irrigation. Conventional overhead watering methods are satisfactory for native plants if they are managed properly.

It is important that the system be designed to effectively water the garden without puddling or dry spots. Excess water around the collar of the plant provides an ideal environment for pathogens. Most native plants prefer to have their foliate kept dry during the warm season, so sprinkler systems should be designed accordingly.

Ideally, the system will be “programmed” or put to use manually to meet the needs of the plants, and the schedule adjusted throughout the year to match the changing needs of the plants. To obtain good penetration in heavy soils, we use “low precipitation” type heads or drip/trickle methods. To keep the foliage dry during the hot part of the day during the warm season, use low angle heads, drip systems, or simply irrigate early in the morning.

Installation

Planting Season The motto of the California Association of NUrserymen is “Planting Time Is All the Time in California.” In the colder parts of the country, gardners are rather inactive during the winter months. We in California are blessed with a beautful climate that invites outdoor activity all year. The C.A.N. motto holds true for most native plants, although the greatest success will be realized with Fall, Winter and Spring plantings. Some species can be handled successfully only during those cooler months. Fall is best of all! Why is that?

In nature, California plants establish extensive root system which penetrate deep into cool moist soil. In doing this, they are assured a constant supply of water, even through the extended dry season (approximately 7 months), typical of our “Mediterranean” climate. Many cannot tolerate excess summer moisture on the surface of the soil, and become predisposed to water-borne disease if they are subjected to it Shallow waterings on newly planted native gardens in the summer will invite plant disease. Summer irrigations must be made using much care.

With an “autumntime” landscape installation, the plants take advantage of the soil, and look fresh and neat in the garden. Apply mulch in the early fall and late spring.

Fertilizing. After the pre-plant (if any), the next feeding should be timed for the next growing season. In any case, very little or no fertilizer is needed during the summer months. Application rates should be cut in half for natives as opposed to the rates for other ornamental plantings. Generally speaking, feed late summer/fall and apply mulch. Another light feeding, winter. Feed again in spring, eliminate weeds. One more light feeding late spring and mulch again. Let the plants rest during the summer and feed only those species which grow rapidly during the warm season.

Pruning. Depends on the kind of plant. Of course dead wood should be removed immediately, sterilizing the pruning equipment with 10% chlorine bleach between cuts. Head back, thin, shape, hedge, etc. to obtain desired effect. Proper spacing in the planning and planting stages will influence how much pruning will be needed later in a native plant garden. Like most landscape plants, shaping and pruning can be done easily after the plant’s flowering period.

Troubleshooting. Proper diagnosis is the key to proper treatment. Insect, disease, weed, rodent, and other pest or cultural problems should be diagnosed accurately and the proper cure rendered promptly. Consult the current horticultural literature on natives, or an advisor who can determine the problem before initiating treatment.

Enjoying the Garden

This paper is directed to the horticultural professional as an aid in planning, installing and maintaining the California native plant landscape. Emphasis has been placed on cultural requirements and tolerances, and practical techniques, with little mention of the esthetic principles for native landscape design.

The subtle qualities of the native plant garden are to be appreciated by even the most casual observer. In no other living art form can the true ambience of a region be experienced, as in the planned environment that appears to be “unplanned”; that is the natural landscape. The honesty of any area is expressed by the environmental characteristics (including the plants) of that particular area.

The true strength of our native flora, when carefully and thoughtfully brought into the designed setting, rests with its own subdued textures, the fresh aromas, the brilliant seasonal colors, and the sense of regional authenticity which we invite into our gardens when we welcome the plants that are already “at home” here.

And, in considering the issues of water conservation and low-maintenance landscaping, we see that by planting California natives, we can have more time to enjoy the garden.