ADVERTISEMENT
Lawnmower Blades01-31-23 | 10
TLE-Anaheim-2025

Lawnmower Blades
The Ultimate California Guide
by Keziah Olsen, LCMP; Ryan Sciamanna, iGoPro Lawn Supply; Joe Sanchez, Anaheim Lawnmower Shop


Finding the Right Blade for Your Lawnmower Ryan Sciamanna, founder of iGoPro Lawn Supply, shares how to select the perfect blade for your mower and your clients?EUR(TM) needs: Purchasing replacement blades for your lawnmower is a relatively easy task if you know your lawnmower blade's part number. But, what if you don't have any of these part numbers to reference? How do you determine which blades will work best? It all starts with a couple of measurements.

Measuring Lawnmower Blades
Measuring straight across the blade is going to give you an inaccurate measurement! To properly measure a lawnmower blade, measure the blade diagonally.

TLE-Anaheim-2025
Above: Blades are measured diagonally, not straight along the largest side.

To measure the diameter, measure straight across the center hole. If your mower blade has three holes, measure the center hole as well as the diameter of the two holes on either side. You will also need to measure the distance between the centers of these two outside holes, which is referred to as ?EUR~center to center.?EUR(TM) Many push lawnmowers and some other types utilize these outer holes to ensure the blades do not hit each other while in use, and many commercial lawnmowers use two or three blades, not just one. The width of a lawnmower blade is usually not relevant to the fitment of the blade, but if this is applicable to your mower, make sure to measure straight across at the widest section of the blade.

TLE-Anaheim-2025
Above: Because this blade has been sharpened too many times, it is too thin to be used safely and should be replaced.

Lawnmower Blade Thickness
It is recommended to stick with the specs of the blade that came stocked on your lawnmower. If for whatever reason you cannot determine the OEM blade part number, don't stress about the thickness of the blade you have, but know that using a blade that is too thick could lower the RPMs to a point where cut quality is lost. Blade thickness is measured by measuring the top of the blade to the bottom. If you are bending a lot of blades, you may want to purchase a thicker lawnmower blade or assess how often your team is hitting rocks.

Lawnmower Blade Types
Let?EUR(TM)s take a look at the different types of lawnmower blades and when you may want to consider each type. High lift lawnmower blades create a lot of lift due to the exaggerated fin on the non-cutting side of the blade. Use high lift lawnmower blades when you are cutting tall grass ?EUR" grass over three inches tall ?EUR" and when you are cutting flimsy grass such as turf-type tall fescue. Do not use high lift lawnmower blades in sandy soil conditions.
TLE-Anaheim-2025
img
 
Low lift lawnmower blades create little lift due to the exaggerated fin on the non-cutting edge of the blade. Use low lift lawnmower blades when you are cutting short grass ?EUR" grass under 3 inches tall ?EUR" when you are cutting rigid grass such as Bermudagrass, and in sandy soil conditions. Do not use low lift lawnmower blades when cutting grass over 3.5 inches. You may see "standard blade" in the description of some lawnmower blades; this is the middle ground between high lift and low lift lawnmower blades and is suitable for any type of cutting. Also referred to as 3-in-1, Gator blades are often used by professional mowing companies in the fall to shred leaves as they mow, but some companies run them all year long. Gator blades also shred longer grass blades before being discharged from the mower's deck, as they do create some lift. Use Gator blades in the fall and when mowing overgrown grass. There might be issues when using these blades in sandy soil conditions. Mulching blades mulch the grass clippings to return them to the soil as natural nutrients. You can discharge the clippings from the mower's deck back into the lawn without mulching blades as long as you are cutting your grass frequently. Use mulching blades when you are not discharging the clippings or bagging them or when you are following the one-third rule, which involves removing a maximum of one third of the grass blade each time you mow. Do not use mulching blades when cutting overgrown grass.

TLE-Anaheim-2025
Above: The arrow is pointing to a blade of grass that is cut unevenly due to tearing from a dull lawnmower blade. This is a sign to sharpen the blade.

Flat lawnmower blades create zero lift due to the blade being completely flat. This kind of blade is not useful in most conditions and should only be used in extremely sandy soil conditions or when cutting a rigid grass type.
TLE-Anaheim-2025
Above: The moment a blade is bent, its integrity has been compromised, and it should be replaced immediately. Do not try to bend or reuse a bent or chipped blade.

Self-sharpening blades use patented technology to literally sharpen themselves as you mow. Early adopters seem to agree that these blades do, in fact, sharpen themselves. Of course, these blades come with a hefty price tag, so it is up to you to determine if they are worth the investment.


Lawnmower Blade Maintenance in California
A successful landscaping operation also relies on knowing which tools work best in your area and keeping them ready for service. LCMP had a conversation with Joe Sanchez, owner of Anaheim Lawnmower, to discuss best practices for maintaining rotating lawnmower blades in California, specifically in areas with sandy soil.

What are the most common reasons for needing to replace a lawnmower blade?
In the Southern California region, sand is the biggest reason for replacing lawnmower blades. The combination of the RPM speed of the blade and the fan creates a sandblasting effect, and it starts wearing away at the blade. This is a big consideration the closer you are to the coast or if you use mowers on baseball or softball fields with decomposed granite (DG).

On average, how often do rotating lawnmower blades need to be replaced when used commercially?
Around here, commercial landscapers are mowing every single day of the work week. In this instance, I would say roughly every 45 days or so, depending on the area where they're mowing. If it's nice, green grass, the blade can last you a little bit longer, but most lawns are not perfectly manicured. The 45-day estimate is for commercial users who are not adequately sharpening and balancing their blades. I tell my landscapers to, at the very least, remove and sharpen the blades once a week, but many companies mow, mow, mow non-stop, so they end up having to replace the blades way sooner than somebody who takes the time to remove, clean, sharpen, and balance them regularly.

How long should landscapers set aside in their weekly schedule to maintenance lawnmower blades?
This depends on how much practice they have under their belt. For someone who?EUR(TM)s experienced and is working on a larger machine, like a tractor mower with multiple blades, it would take about 20 to 30 minutes per machine for sharpening and balancing. A 21-inch mower that is more common in commercial work should only need about 10 to 15 minutes. This weekly maintenance can be done at the beginning or the end of the week and will extend the life of the blade.

Besides the timeline, what are some signs that a rotating blade needs to be sharpened or replaced?
Once you start noticing that the mower is not cutting the grass ?EUR" when it's just hammering it or tearing the grass with blunt force instead of cutting it ?EUR" that?EUR(TM)s when you should take a closer look at your blades. At what point do you recommend replacing a blade? In Southern California, a lot of people like to use a Gator blade, and they?EUR(TM)ll start to see the actual Gator teeth wear off because of the sand. The blades towards the edge will wear out quicker than the ones in the center. If somebody hits a pine needle or a baseball or a metal rod that was somehow not seen in the grass, that can put a dent into the blade. When this happens, you want to make sure that it?EUR(TM)s not bent or crooked right away, because that?EUR(TM)s not repairable. On the whole, if a blade is damaged, I would not recommend any kid of repair and just replace it right away.

What about a blade that?EUR(TM)s not damaged
Most commercial blades have a wear indicator where they tell you, ?EUR~Hey, stop grinding here.?EUR(TM) Once you get to this point, you know it?EUR(TM)s time to replace the blade, but because of the terrain here, we hardly ever get to the wear marks because the blades get sandblasted way before that point.

Does any technology exist to address these issues?
As of right now, nothing exists to address the sandblasting. One, because it?EUR(TM)s particular to places that have a lot of sand. Two, if they make lawnmower blades so hard that the sand doesn?EUR(TM)t wear them out, you end up with blades that will break on impact instead of bending, creating a very dangerous situation. So, the steel on lawnmower blades can?EUR(TM)t be too strong because that would create a safety hazard, and there are currently no other solutions for sandblasting.

What preventative steps can commercial users take to extend the life of their blades?
Regular sharpening and balancing are going to be your best friends, but another great recommendation would be to walk the grass before mowing it, so you can see what's going on. Make sure there are no obstacles in the grass like a hammer, baseball, or gopher hole and try to remove them before mowing over the area.

If/when gas mowers are allowed back in California, what will be their value in comparison to electric mowers, if any?
As of right now, I will let you know that some people are hesitant to go to the battery-powered mower. That has created a supply and demand issue, because people will pay more to continue using gasoline powered equipment. But, if they are allowed back into California, I think their value is going to drop back to normal because it?EUR(TM)s not going be a hard-to-get item. For people that already have electric mowers, some of them are thinking they?EUR(TM)ll never go back to gas because they can start earlier in the morning, they don?EUR(TM)t have to worry about oil changes, spark plugs, fumes, or gasoline. The biggest obstacle to electric equipment is the hesitation people have to switching. We sell a lot of electric equipment, and the people that give it a chance are really happy with it once they get used to it.


How To Sharpen Lawn Mower Blades
The DIY Guide
by Ryan Sciamanna, iGoPro Lawn Supply


Hand Sharpening
Using an angle grinder and vice grip is probably the most common way homeowners and small businesses sharpen their lawn mower blades. Many people will actually take their blades into the local mower shop to have their blades sharpened. Although this is an option, the cost over time and time involved in each visit makes it less than ideal for landscape management professionals. This method involves removing the blades from your mower, inserting them into a vice grip one at a time, and grinding the cutting edge with an angle grinder. After grinding one side of the blade, rotate the blade 180 degrees in the vice to grind the other side. Although this is a relatively quick process, other options are much quicker and more accurate, as lawn mower blades come from the factory with a specific angle that should be kept over time. The most common angle is 30-35 degrees. Since the person operating the grinder is using only their motor skills to keep that angle, it leaves the door wide open for the degree to be altered. This isn?EUR(TM)t the end of the world because the blade will still cut the grass, but there will be some quality and performance loss. This way is probably 'best' for a homeowner to efficiently and cost-efficiently maintain their mower blades, because they more than likely have a single lawn mower with one, two, or possibly three blades to sharpen. It could also be the best option for smaller companies, since it doesn?EUR(TM)t take much longer than the other methods and the cost savings are significant in comparison. Putting together an angle grinder set-up, as per the web search 'angle grinder,' will cost between $50 and $300. You may have everything you need to do this already, making it practically 'free' to start sharpening your blades. Angle grinders run from $30 to $250 or more, a vice is going to be at least $30, and you?EUR(TM)ll want to grab some replacement grinding discs that run between $2 and $10 a piece. A disc with a diameter of 4.5 inches is a great size. Also, consider purchasing a 'flap disk' instead of the metal grinding wheel to keep your blades cooler during the sharpening process.

TLE-Anaheim-2025
Above: An angle grinder set-up with a vice grip. Photo Credit: iGoPro

Machine Sharpening
Looking at a rotary blade sharpener is warranted when you have five or more mowers in your fleet. In the long run, the time-savings could be cheaper than the cost of the blade grinders and provide better results. Rotary blade sharpeners often have guides set at a common angle for the cutting edge on a lawn mower blade, typically 30 degrees. The blades do still need to be removed from your machine, but the machine makes quick work of putting the correct degree edge back on your blades. Often, your blades will be razor-sharp in as little as two passes, while it is not uncommon to make 10-20 passes when using an angle grinder. A rotary blade sharpener is ideal for professional companies and DIY homeowners with some extra money to throw around. If you have multiple mowers in your fleet, this can save a lot of time compared to grinding several blades, one after the other, with an angle grinder. Purchasing a rotary blade set-up, as per the web search 'rotary blade sharpener,' starts at $150 for a simple machine from Home Depot and can go up to $9,650 for an industrial set-up from STIHL-approved German manufacturer Franzen.

Final Thoughts
Determine if you'd like to spend a little more for speed and accuracy or save some money by doing it the 'old fashioned way' with an angle grinder and vice grip. It's super important to keep your mower blades sharp, so please, no matter how you do it, do it right and do it often. Also, do it safely! Always be extra cautious when removing, grinding, and installing your mower blades, and make sure they are properly and securely reinstalled. The last thing you want is a freshly sharpened mower blade flying into the neighbor's living room!
img


Related Content