In, Around & Just Outside Phoenix

Kyle Cavaness, LASN

...But It's A Dry Heat
Of course, the heat has never been enough to keep people away. Phoenix and its suburbs, in the northeastern region of the Sonoran Desert, have been occupied in some form for thousands of years. Native Hohokam, Pima and Yavapai tribes lived, traded and dug irrigation canals in the area, predating modern canals and aqueducts in the same locations.

After the Mexican-American War ended in 1848, the United States took control of most of Arizona, as well as all of what would become California, Utah, Nevada, and parts of Colorado and New Mexico. Phoenix was officially incorporated as a city in 1881, and was selected over Prescott and Tucson to be the state capital in 1912 for its central location. Between 1940 and 1990, people were drawn to the Phoenix area by industry and manufacturing jobs during World War II, agriculture, and increasing recreational and tourist opportunities (more on that later). Since 1940, Phoenix expanded from the 99th largest city in the nation to the 6th, according to the 2010 U.S. Census, with a present population of
1.45 million.

The Rosson House is one of the oldest modern structures in the Phoenix area, built in 1895, less than 15 years after the city of Phoenix was officially incorporated. Today the city maintains the 2,800 square foot Victorian-style structure, which has been converted into a museum and exhibits to show what life was like in the area at the turn of the 19th century.
Address: 113 N 6th St., Phoenix

This growth made Arizona the most populous landlocked state in the Union in 2011, surpassing Tennessee.

Like many Western states, a large portion of land in Arizona is owned and managed by the government, much of it comprising national parks, national monuments, state parks and other protected areas. State officials recently attempted a "sagebrush rebellion," pushing legislation that would transfer all of the federal land in the state except military bases, Indian reservations, national parks and some wilderness areas - as much as 25 million acres - from federal control to the states. A bill to that end recently passed the state House of Representatives but did not make it through
the senate.

Today the Phoenix economy is one of the fastest growing in the nation, and the housing market has been one of the quickest metropolitan areas to start recovering following the recession.

The Taliesin West complex was architectural mastermind Frank Lloyd Wright's summer compound for the last two decades of his life, and is currently home to the Frank Lloyd Wright School of Architecture. Guided tours of this National Historic Landmark are available to guests interested in this one-of-a-kind construction from the mind of one of America's most gifted creators.

Manufacturing still plays an important role in local job growth, as industrial products including agricultural chemicals, aircraft parts, air-conditioning and electronics equipment, leather and Native American goods are all produced in and around Phoenix. The financial and business sectors have also grown in recent years, as the city houses the regional headquarters of notable firms like American Express, IBM, Bank of America, Boeing, Chase Bank, Time Warner Telecom and Wells Fargo. More than a third of the jobs in Arizona are in and around Phoenix.

St. Mary's Basilica is one of the oldest buildings in Phoenix. Four domes spanning the length of the basilica highlight the Mission Revival and Spanish Colonial Revival-style architecture. Inside, visitors can view more than 30 stained glass windows and portraits, including the "Vision of the Messiah in Paradise" that highlights the choir loft.
Address: 231 N 3rd St, Phoenix

Architecture
Phoenix is fairly short on old-style architecture, since the town was built from scratch out of the desert sand around the same time America's North and South were in the midst of their 'Civil' disagreement. Despite its recent arrival (historically speaking) to the big-city stage, Phoenix has preserved some of its oldest and most notable early buildings to establish a rich and eclectic heritage.

One historic holdover from the city's origins is the Rosson House, a Victorian home built in 1895 in the Eastlake architectural style, and restored and maintained by the city since it's purchase in 1974. The 2,800 square foot Rosson House holds ten rooms, five fireplaces and hourly guided tours Tuesday through Sunday. Visitors can learn what life was like for residents in the earliest years of the town's founding. The Rosson House is situated in downtown Phoenix in Heritage Square, at 6th Street and Monroe.

A more contemporary architectural landmark is Taliesin West, the winter home and studio of Frank Lloyd Wright for two decades before his death in 1959. Wright bought 600 acres for his complex in northeast Scottsdale in 1937 (for $3.50 an acre!), about a half-hour drive from Phoenix. The structure's walls are based around local desert rocks, as Wright favored using nearby resources for building rather than materials that had to be transported into the area. The rocks are stacked within wood forms and filled with concrete, and originally supported a translucent canvas roof (later replaced by a plastic roof due to intense wear from the sun) that allowed natural light to fill the design space. Wright would continue to alter and add to the buildings for years when he came to stay.

The site draws 100,000 tourists annually, is home to the Frank Lloyd Wright School of Architecture, and was designated a National Historic Landmark in 1982. Summer visitors can tour property and view highlights like the Wright's private office, the Cabaret Theater, Seminar Theater, Music Pavilion, living quarters and more, all designed by Wright and maintained in his singular style.

"Wild West" style shows and interactive experiences are popular attractions throughout the Phoenix area. Guided tours are widely available, including visits to a nearby gold mine, as well as trips through the desert and mountain landscape on horseback. Other options can include pistol and shotgun shooting, steer roping, tomahawk throwing and other themed games and activities. Find out more at westerndestinations.com or goldfieldghosttown.com
Credit: Terry Fitch

Another structure from Phoenix's early days is Saint Mary's Basilica, the first Catholic house of worship established in Arizona and the state's only basilica today. Only blocks from the Rosson House at 3rd Street and Monroe, the building nearly predates the city's founding - construction began in 1880, Phoenix was incorporated in 1881 - though the church was not completed until 1914.

The lead architect on the project changed several times, leading eventually to the Mission Revival style that is characteristic of the American Southwest. The vaulted domes and the use of light within the church are exceptional sights. The interior was fashioned in a Romanesque style and features more than 30 stained glass windows that date back to the building's original construction.

Attractions & Museums
The Phoenix area has a colorful background: from its earliest days as a home to native tribes, to the Wild West-style living of the 1800s, to the modern metropolis bustling with businesses, sports and tourism. Visitors from out of town can sample all of the above. One of the most highly rated activities in the Phoenix area is Western Destinations at Canyon Creek Ranch, 40 miles north of the city limits at the foothills of the Bradshaw Mountains. Visitors can take guided horseback riding tours of the area; target shoot with a bow and arrow; shoot pistols, shotguns and at skeet; learn to rope a steer; ride a mechanical bull and play a variety of games.

Other horseback riding tours and Wild West shows and experiences are available throughout the Phoenix area, like the Goldfield Ghost Town, which offers tours of an underground mine and a museum dedicated to the "Lost Dutchman" gold mine, supposedly "the most famous mine in the country despite the fact that no one knows where it is."

Four trails totaling 2.5 miles navigate the Phoenix Zoo, the largest non-profit zoo in the nation. The Africa trail features Sumatran Tigers (pictured), lions, rhinos, and a giraffe-feeding station; the Tropics Trail has elephants, monkeys (like the Mandrill, pictured) and reptiles; the Arizona Trail holds bobcats, mountain lions and Mexican wolves; the Children's Trail keeps several aviaries, a petting zoo and learning stations for kids.
Address: 455 North Galvin Parkway, Phoenix

North Phoenix's Musical Instrument Museum (MIM) is a popular showcase of musical instruments from around the world. Guests can walk 75,000 square feet of exhibit space with wireless headphones that stream audio clips of music and sounds from the instruments in each display, accompanied by video clips that show how the instruments are played. The museum includes guided tours with the price of admission, and exhibits are organized by theme and the continental origin of the instruments.

Phoenix is also home to the Hall of Flame, a museum dedicated to firefighters and firefighting equipment throughout history. The Hall features nearly an acre of historic exhibits, including restored fire engines dating back to 1725, a historic gallery of wildland firefighting, and a variety of international fire helmets and other equipment representing nearly 300 years of firefighting history. The Hall of Flame also sponsors the National Firefighting Hall of Heroes, which honors firefighters decorated for heroism and those who died in the line of duty.

Phoenix's Hall of Flame holds a variety of vintage and antique firefighting equipment, including fire helmets, carts and carriages, hoses, and a memorial to deceased and decorated firefighters.
Address: 6101 E Van Buren St., Phoenix

Visitors to the Heard Museum will be treated to one of the largest collection of American Indian art and artifacts in the country, with over 40,000 items in its ever-expanding archives. Eleven exhibition galleries of paintings, historic drawings, jewelry and outdoor sculpture are "dedicated to the sensitive and accurate portrayal of Native arts and cultures," according to the Heard's website. Public guided tours are included with the price of admission.

The Musical Instrument Museum in Phoenix is the largest museum of its type in the world, with a collection of more than 15,000 instruments. Wireless "hot spots" in different exhibits throughout the museum send loops of music and sounds of the instruments being played to headphones for visitors.
Address: 4725 E Mayo Blvd., Phoenix

Sports
The Phoenix area is home to four professional sports teams: the Phoenix Suns (basketball), Arizona Diamondbacks (baseball), the Phoenix Coyotes (hockey) and the Arizona Cardinals (football). During the ASLA weekend, the Diamondbacks will play their next-to-last series of the regular season at home against the Chicago Cubs, on September 28, 29 and 30 at Chase Field. The Arizona Cardinals will also square off at home on Sunday, September 30, against the Seattle Seahawks, at the University of Phoenix Stadium in Glendale.

In the spring, the Phoenix area is home to the Cactus League, the official spring training league of Major League Baseball. Fifteen teams have training complexes in Phoenix and surrounding suburbs like Mesa, Goodyear, Tempe, Glendale and Surprise, where they practice and play exhibition games throughout February and March.

The red rocks of Sedona are a unique sight, and humans have made their homes among them for thousands of years to enjoy and be inspired by the landscape. Natural features and momuments are scattered throughout the area, as are ancient American Indian ruins and living quarters. Tourists can view the area on walking tours, or from guided tours in cars, airplanes, helicopters or hot air balloons.
Find out more at pinkjeep.com or northerlightballon.com
Credit: Tomas Castelazo

Nature, Nutured
South Mountain Park, at the southern end of Phoenix's city border, is the largest municipal park in the world - though the area is more rocks and hills than grass and playgrounds. South Mountain offers an abundance of trails for hiking, horseback riding and picnicking, and rewards hikers with great views of the cityscape and the surrounding desert and mountain ranges. Visitors can hike to Dobbins Lookout, 2,330 feet up, and along the way may spot ancient Native American petroglyphs (rock carvings) left throughout the area.

The Desert Botanical Garden in Phoenix is a 140-acre collection of more than 21,000 desert and exotic plants. Large saguaro, ocotillo and organ pipe cacti form an entryway to the garden, and plant collections from Australia, South America and Baja California - all adapted to desert conditions - are available for green-thumbed visitors.

The Phoenix Zoo contains more than 1,300 animals, including 200 endangered species, along four themed trails: the Africa Trail, the Tropics Trail, the Arizona Trail and the Children's Trail. The first three trails feature animals native to that area's theme, and the Children's trail includes a petting zoo and interactive exhibits. The facility occupies 125 acres of the Papago Park area, and the walking trails total 2.5 miles of animal enjoyment. The largest non-profit zoo in the U.S. since it opened in 1962, the Phoenix Zoo is celebrating its 50th anniversary with special events and a children's art contest. A multimillion-dollar renovation also created new habitats and exhibits for the anniversary.

The Desert Botanical Garden is another great way to experience nature's charms in Phoenix, without having to leave the city limits. Located next to the Phoenix Zoo in Papago Park, the 140-acre Desert Botanical Garden features a wide variety of succulents, saguaro cacti and other native and exotic flora throughout the expansive grounds. The garden has more than 21,000 plants, one-third of which are native to the area, and maintains 139 species that are rare, threatened or endangered. Five separate thematic trails showcase desert plants, plants from around the world and desert wildflowers, among others. Some of the trails lead to remarkable views of the mountains and cityscape. The Garden is hosting a "Corks & Cactus" wine and food tasting on September 28 and 29, and a monarch butterfly exhibit also opens that weekend.

The Pima and Yavapai tribes native to the Phoenix area consider the South Mountain and nearby Sierra Estrella range sacred. Many ancient petroglyphs are visible to adventurous hikers and cyclers on their way up the mountain. Credit: Brad Wilson

For those itching to see Arizona's fascinating geography outside the city limits, a two-hour drive northward (close by desert standards) will bring visitors to Sedona - also known as "Red Rock Country" for its stunning red canyons, cliffs and monuments. The area draws four million visitors annually, both for the views and the weather; the area's high elevation keeps the average annual temperature below 75 degrees. Hiking tours are available, as well as tours by car, airplane, helicopter and - for the more adventurous - hot air balloon. The town is also a destination for art lovers, with multiple art galleries often inspired by the unique natural beauty of the area. If you choose to go to Sedona, stop at Montezuma's Castle on the way, about 25 miles south of Sedona near Camp Verde. Though the name implies a connection to the Aztecs of Central America, this national monument actually features five-story stone and mortar cliff dwellings built around 700 CE (1,300 years ago) by the Sinagua tribe, who were related to the Hohokam tribe that settled in the Phoenix area. Researchers believe the population of the dwellings peaked in the 13th century, and abandoned it nearly a century before Columbus sailed to the Americas. Various ancient stone tools, ornaments and artifacts are on display at the visitor's center nearby, and a short trail takes visitors along the base of the cliff to view the ruins.

The Heard Museum is home to a massive collection of antique and contemporary Native American art, outdoor sculpture and other artifacts. Its library contains over 34,000 volumes, and the facility includes galleries, classrooms, hands-on activities and crafts and performance space.
Address: 2301 N Central Ave., Phoenix

The Grand Canyon, one of the seven natural wonders of the world, is probably worth its own dedicated vacation for anyone truly interested. If you aren't expecting to return to Phoenix, however, the 277-mile long, 18-mile wide, 6,000-feet deep Colorado River-carved marvel is worth a visit if time permits. Getting to the site requires a four-hour northward drive from Phoenix, but aerial tours of the Grand Canyon based out of the city are also available. If this is your once-in-a-lifetime trip to Phoenix, the Grand Canyon is certainly worth a look.

Montezuma's Castle, near Camp Verde outside of Sedona, is not a castle and has nothing to do with the Aztec king Montezuma. (Also, 'Camp Verde' translates into "green space," even though the city is in the middle of the desert.) The site features centuries-old cliff dwellings that resemble a pre-historic apartment complex, and a nearby museum contains the ancient tools and artifacts that researchers found within the "Castle."

In addition to all of the natural desert sights in the Phoenix area, the city has a thriving downtown, with restaurants, event centers and all sorts of attractions to visit. But don't say we didn't warn you when you get there and it's hot.