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Editor?EUR??,,????'???s note: A good deal of information for this article was gleaned from ?EUR??,,????'??Care of Ornamental Plants in the Landscape?EUR??,,????'?? by Gary Wade, horticulturist, and Beverly Sparks, entomologist, both from the Cooperative Extension Service of the University of Georgia College of Agricultural and Environmental Sciences. Additional information came from the North Carolina Dept. of Agriculture and interviews with landscape managers Chris Burrows (Pinehurst Resort, N.C.) and Jim Kaufmann (National Gallery Sculpture Garden, Washington, D.C.).
Some plants (e.g., roses, English laurel) require more care and others are less worrisome (e.g., ornamental grasses, hollies, junipers). Azaleas, for example, need moist soil and shade from the glare of the mid-afternoon sun. Like most plants, azaleas also need good drainage. Improper care and choice of ornamental plants breeds weak flora whose lack of vigor makes them more susceptible to insect damage and disease.
Keep in mind low-maintenance landscape practices. It?EUR??,,????'???s certainly easier to care for plants native to a particular soil, terrain and climate than trying to nurse exotic plants. The low water needs of xeriscapes and employing integrated pest management (discriminate use of insecticides and encouraging friendly pests) are reaping not only attractive landscapes but saving supers time and money on T & O care.
Chris Burrows, the superintendent for the Pinehurst Resort in North Carolina, and Jim Kaufmann, a horticulturist for the National Sculpture Garden in Washington, D.C., both rely on annual soil tests to guide them on fertilization and soil amendments. Mr. Kaufmann?EUR??,,????'???s property on the Washington Mall is known as the ?EUR??,,????'??clay swamp.?EUR??,,????'??
When the garden was installed about three feet of soil (clay) was removed and replaced with a custom soil blend?EUR??,,????'??+about 77 percent sand and the rest organic matter. Some of the ornamental beds have been completely dug up to put in new drainage and to add soil amendments (gravel, organic matter, bark mulch). Kaufmann employs IPM and also relies on extension service recommendations for herbicide use and what other horticulturists in his area find works best.
Yes, a silly parody of King Richard III?EUR??,,????'???s plea, but according to the North Carolina Dept. of Agriculture (NDCDA), lime contributes more benefits to soil than an other amendment. It neutralizes soil acidity, stimulates microbial activity, enhances the availability of nutrient elements and supplies essential calcium and magnesium and promotes plant growth.
Most bagged lime is a finely ground, high-quality agricultural grade dolomitic lime (contains calcium and magnesium carbonates). Lime recommendations on soil test reports are expressed in units of M, the same as lb./1,000 sq. ft. Lime, like fertilizer should be applied based on a current soil test. The suggested rate and application should raise the soil pH to 6.0-6.5, explains NDCDA, and keep it within the desired range for two to three years on sandy coastal plain soils and for three to four years on silt and/or clay piedmont and mountain soils.
For new gardens lime is broadcast over the surface and incorporated 4?EUR??,,????'???8 inches into the soil. For gardens and ornamental shrubs its broadcast then irrigated. The NCDA warns not to surface apply more than 50 pounds of lime per 1,000 sq. ft. at any given time. Overliming can reduce the availability of some micronutrients, a problem is common on sandy coastal plain soils. Lime residue will not harm plants and can be removed easily by irrigation or rainfall.
Generally, most ornamentals benefit from 3-1-2 or 4-1-2 ratios of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium (N-P-K). Phosphorus, the middle number in an analysis, does not leach with rains or irrigation as does N and P, thus the lower ratio requirement for P. Still, on ground where phosphorus has never been applied, a balanced ratio (8-8-8 or 10-10-10) is sometimes recommended.
Base your fertilizer choices on cost, types of plants, the soil type and the desired growth response. Liquid or water-soluble fertilizers are good choices for just planted annuals and herbaceous perennials as they need to quickly take in nutrients. Slow-release fertilizers benefit plants that store reserves in their roots, e.g., woody ornamentals. Some granular slow-release fertilizers last six to eight months after application. Nitrogen listed as ammoniacal has slow-release properties; nitrogen listed as derived from urea, urea-formaldehyde, isobutylenediurea, or sulfur-coated urea increases the release duration. Common slow-release fertilizers include Osmocote granules, Osmocote tablets, Jobe?EUR??,,????'???s Spikes, Once, Woodace briquettes, Agriform tablets and Milorganite. These fertilizers generally cost more per pound than general-purpose granular fertilizers (e.g., 10-10-10 or 12-4-8) but last longer.
You may prefer composting or organic fertilizers (bone meal, cottonseed meal, manures). Table 1 lists the average nutrient content of several organic fertilizer sources.
Research published in the Journal of American Horticulture Science on nonbearing prune trees and their growth cycle revealed the tree begins actively absorbing nitrogen from the soil beginning in April, with the peak levels of nitrogen absorption between May and Sept. This is the most critical fertilization period. The rule of thumb is to apply fertilizer as soon as the plants begin to bud and stop fertilizing after the first fall frost.
One application of a slow-release fertilizer should suffice for the growing season, however, two or three applications are necessary for general-purpose granular (GPG) fertilizers, depending on the slow-release properties. For just-planted ground covers, annuals, herbaceous perennials and roses, light applications of GPGs (12-4-8 or 10-10-10) are recommended at four to six week intervals. During periods of little rainfall or drought or in nonirrigated areas, reduce the amount and frequency of fertilizer, as it can injure ornamental roots under drought stress.
Newly-planted ornamental trees and shrubs benefit from light applications of fertilizer made during the first growing season after transplanting (Table 2). Broadcast the fertilizer uniformly along the perimeter of the planting hole. Newly planted ornamentals are under stress and can be easily injured by overfertilization. Also, don?EUR??,,????'???t use weed-and-feed fertilizers in the vicinity as the herbicide may do damage.
Nitrogen controls plant growth, so application rates are based on this primary nutrient. Table 3 lists suggested application rates for several general-purpose fertilizers. The recommendation of fertilization rates is 3-5 applications on annuals, herbaceous perennials, roses and newly established ground covers; otherwise, low rates are recommended, particularly if you desire a lower maintenance landscape.
The following are some do?EUR??,,????'???s and don?EUR??,,????'???ts prescribed by Gary Wade, horticulturist, and Beverly Sparks, entomologist, both from the Cooperative Extension Service of the University of Georgia College of Agricultural and Environmental Sciences, in ?EUR??,,????'??Care of Ornamental Plants in the Landscape.?EUR??,,????'??
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